Buttonhole-stitching machine.



F. A. REECE.

BUTTONHOLE STITCHING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 8. 1913.

1,1 90,583. Patented July 11, 1916.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

, UNITED'STATES PATENT OFFICE.

FRANKLIN AUGUSTUS REECE, OF MANCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE BEECE BUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPO RATION 0F MAINE.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, FRANKLIN A. REECE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Manchester, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Buttonhole-Stitching Machines, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawing.

This invention relates to buttonhole stitchmechanism are, for convenience, omitted herefrom, but may be supplied by reference to such prior known machines as are 1llustrated, for example, in Patent No. (395,039,

granted March 11, 1902, upon the invention of W. W. Dixon.

An object of the present invention is to afford in a buttonhole stitcl lng' machine of the type referred to, or of other types, an efiicient and novel stitching mechanism, particularly one adaptable to the species of machine in which an eye-pointed needle carries an upper thread, and a shiftable stock carries the needle which manipulates an under thread in cooperation with the needle carrying the upperthread- A further object hereof isto improve in different ways the mode of cooperation between the parts above and below the work.'

Another object is/to improve the action of the machine and its durability, by the employment of a straight under needle cooperating with a straight upper needle.

Another-object is toimprove and simplify the machine by dispensing with the usually employed looper beneath the work coeperunder needle a special motion or action not ating-with the under needle.

Another object isto permit the dispensing with the looper by reason of giving to the heretofore. employed.

'Another object is to improve the, cooper- Specification of Letters Patent.

BUTTONHOLE-STITCHING MACHINE.

ation between the upper and under needles" by operating both of them in vertical planes in the manner hereinafter to be described.

Other objects and advantages of'the present improvement will appear in the herein-V after following description or will be obvious to those skilled in the art.

First will be described oneor more preferred embodiments of the present improve ment as illustrative of the principles involved and thereafter the novel features will be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the accompanying drawings forming a part hereof Figure-1 is a partial right-hand elevation of a buttonhole stitching machine of the type before referred to and embodying. the present improvements. Fig. .2. is a left-hand. elevation of the under sewing mechanism detached including the shiftable stock and the parts carried thereby. Fig. 3 is a front elevation partly in vertical cross section taken on the plane 33 of Fig. 1. Fig. 4 isa right-hand ele'vationof' the under sewing mechanism. Fig. 5 is a front elevation of the portion. of the machine shown in Fig. 1, taken partly in central cross section v to show the interiorv structure. Fig. 6' is a top plan view of the under sewing mechanism with the forward side thereof at the bottom ofthe drawing. Figs. 7 and 8 show details of the fittings of the under needle.- Figs. 9, 10 and 11 showdiagrammatically Figs. 12 to 18 show in successive steps the mode of cooperation between the upper and under needles. Fig. 19 shows a left-hand elevation corresponding to Fig. 2 but disclosing a modified embodiment. of the improvement. Fig. 20 is .a front elevation partly in central section of the under mechanism shown in Fig. 19., Figs: 21 to, 24 show in successive steps the mode of cooperation between the upper and under needles of Figs. 19 and 20.

Similar reference numerals designate cor-' responding parts in the "different figures of the drawings. While in someaspects' the present im Patented July 11, 1916. l Application filed November 8, 1913. Serial No. 799,855. 2 i

the motions of the under needle and carrier.

provements might be employed in any twoprovements were especially designed and are particularly useful in connection with a Inachine having cooperating upper and under needles, the under needle with its fittings and actuating parts being carried upon a stock which shifts during the sewing operations; for exampleyshifts longitudinally or in a rotary manner or both.

In referring to buttonhole stitching it is not intended to limit the invention to the production of buttonholes since that type of stitching may he applied along the edges of eyelets or other holes or edge portions of fabric. work support, to be described herein. will be referred to as horizontal and the respective needles as upp and under needles but it is to be understood that such words are used merely in a relative sense.

Specifically the herein illust'ated example of the present invention may be described as follows: A work clamp frame 30 and a stitch mechanism frame 31 are relatively movable in any desired manner for the purpose of enabling the stitching to advance along the work. The work clamp frame 30 may be considered as stationary. It is provided with suitable clamping devices indicated at 32. A cutting device 33 may be employed for the purpose of de scending toward the work support or clamp frame 30 to cut the slit afterward to be stitched into a buttonhole, and the cutter 33 may he opposed i an anvil 34 seen in Figs. 52, and t and indicated in Fig. 1.

The stitch frame 31, already referred to. is only partially shown but it will be understood to be capable of relative movement, it moving longitudinally or forwardly and rearwardl and also laterally at times with respect to the clamp frame 30-; and the stitch frame has portions extending both below and above the level of the work. the upper portions having a forwardly extending arm. a portion of which 35 is shown in Figs. 1 and This overhanging portion 35 of the stitch frame carries the needle bar 36 by which the upper needle 37 is carried in its vertically reciprocating movements as will later appear. The needle 37 is eccentric with relation to its bar or carrier so that the needle may he shifted slightly circularly when the shifting stock, hereinafter to be referred to, oscillates.

The portion of the stitch frame 31 which is below the work level has at its front extremity a casing 38 containing cams for performing certain operations. In the forward and backward movements of the stitch frame bolts 39 on the cam casing serve to steady and guide the stitch frame by e ngaging in sliding contact with the surfaces or ways 40 on the clamp frame 30.

Opposed to the upper needle 37 and carried by the stitch frame beneath the work is the under stitching mechanism. There may be a relative shifting of the stitching mechanism with respect to the Work clamp and For convenience the work and the l cause the swinging of the lever.

this may be effected by mounting the under stitching mechanism upon a shiftable stock -15. The stock may, for example, shift circularly or oscillate about its own vertical axis. Means are shown for giving the stock 45 support and bearing in its circularly shifting movements. Thus a circular hearing 46. formed at the front of the cam casing 38 is engaged by the circular upper portion of the stock, while a depending hanger 47 is fitted to give support and bearing to the circular lower portion of the stock as more clearly seen in Fig. 7.

' It is proposed .to circularly shift the stock in such manner and at such times as the particular work may require by means of mecl1- anisms which serve also to rotate the upper needle carrier 36 thus corres ondingly circularly shifting the upper needle. A gear 50 is shown secured to the lower portion of the stock 45 by means of a nut. the gea1"s hub engaging within the hanger l7 as before explained, for the purpose of a lower hearing. The gear 50 is engaged by a second gear :31 shown as a partial gear or rack; the

toothed rack 51 is carried on a two'armed lever 52 Fig. 1 which permits the rack to oscillate and thereby circularly shift the stock. The rearward arm of the lever 52 is seen engaged by another lever 53 in suclra manner that the latter may operate the.

former. The lever 53 is shown secured at the lower end of an upright shaft at 54-Wllll6 a stud projects from the lever 53 into the cam casing 38 so that the cam therein may The parts described may be suitably connected by connections extending above the work level so as to cause the shifting of the upper needle 37' in exact accordance with the shifting of the stock 45.

It is intended that the under stitching mechanism carried on the stock -15 shall be operable whether the stock be shifting or at rest. Convenient connections for this purpose include an actuator (30 which is shown in the nature of an upright hollow bar located centrally or axially of the stock and capable of rapid up and down vibration. To effect such vibration of the actuator it is shown provided with a ball and cup device or joint 61 at its lower end through which the actuator is engaged by a lever 62 having a forked forward end straddling the ball and cup device, such lever being intermediately pivoted at the lower part of a pair of opposite side brackets 63. The lever 62 extends rearwardly beyond the pivot and at its rear end has a connection such as rod 64 by which it is actuated from a suitable cam or other automatic portion of the machine so as to cause rapid up and down movements and thereby effect the vibration of the actuator.

There have now been described all of the parts to be referred to with the exception of those carried on the stock 45 serving as fittings for the under needle or cooperating therewith. A suitable under needle carrier 71 is shown as extended in alinement with the needlealthough it might stand relatively differently. v

Atthe .upper portion of the-stock 4:5 is shown a'throat plate 72 carried upon an extension 73. It will be understood that the under needle 70 reci n-ocates generally upwardly and downwardly through the throat plate in cooperation with the upper needle. 'hile possibly different forms of stitches could be made the general mode of operation of the described example of the present invention is that the under needle when above the work presents to the upper needle a loop of under thread, the upper needle entering such loop, descending, penetrating the work, and when below the work presenting or affording a loop of upper thread which the under needle, after descending,

is caused to enter on its succeeding ascent,

so that with perhaps the assistance of proper take-up devices the two threads are alter nately interlocked above and below the work and set, to produce an overseam or buttonhole stitch.

Before describing the actual fittings of the under needle as seen in Figs. 1, 2 and 8, the general nature of the needles operation will be best explained from the diagrams Figs. 9, 10 and 11. Fig. 9 shows the under needle and carrier in the position where the needle is about to enter the throat plate or pass through the plane of the work or the slit therein. lVhen the needle passes above the work it is preferred to tip it laterally toward the path of the upper needle and this tipping may be conveniently attained by moving the under needle up and down substantially in an are or curved path. Instead of fitting the under needle by means of slideways for this motion a link motion is shown designed to give the desired movement. Thus the under needle carrier 71 is indicated in the diagrams as having a link 74 extending from its lower end to a fixed pivot or center at 75 while the carriers upper'end is shown as connected by a link 76(with a pivot or center 77. If the two links were parallel and of the same length the needle and carrier would have no tip- .ping motion and, therefore, the links are otherwise constructed. When moved upwardly the action of the links will beas indicated in Fig. 10 to cause a substantial tippin The motion of the needle and carrier between the positions-of Figs. 9 and 10 may be termed the regular motion and that 10'; tion is controlled solely by the two links swinging aboiit the-two centers 75 and 77.

Heretofore in this type of machine it has been customary to employ a "speclal looper a lateral movement'as to enable it, without the aid of the looper, to enter a loop of thread on the upper needle, namely, by mov' ing beyond the path of the upper needle and during its return entering the loop before again "ascending. This lateral motion of the under needle may be considered an extra motion, and to effect that in the described construction a different device is herein brought into play. Such device is one enabling one of the pivots 75 or 77, to relatively shift sufficiently to cause or enable the extra or lateral movement of the under needle beneath. the work. The cen' ter or pivot 77 is'shown rendered capable of shifting to a new center or position 78 (Fig. 11) by means of a third link 79 which, itself, is fixedly pivoted at 80 and at its other end affords a pivot and guide for one end of the link 76. The result of this comparatively simple 3-link motion is that the under needle and carrier when brought downwardly to the position of Fig. 9 may be shifted laterally to the position of Fig. 11 for-their extra movement and return to the position of Fig. 9 before again ascending to the position of Fig. 10.

Having explained from the diagrams the 93 constituting an exit for the under thread which enters the lower end of the actuator. Passing from the exit 93 the thread extends downwardly to a tension 94, around said tension and upwardly to the extremity of the take-up lever 95 which is capable of shifting to and fro in harmony with the movements of the needles. The take-up lever is pivoted .upon a boss 96 and has associated with it a spring 97 tending always topress the takeup lever leftward in Fig. 3. A projecting pin 98 on the actuator contacts the take-up.

lei'er and forces it to the right against the opposition of spring-97 at the proper times to give up and take up the under thread. From the extremity of the take up the thread passes to a thread eye 99 at the top of the stock and from thence the thread passes first to the lower and then to the. upperaeye of the eye-pointed under needle 70. V

It will be particularly noted that the fittings of the under needle are such that the needlein all of its swinging movements re- ,sion 83.

mains in a single vertical plane relatively to the stock. It has heretofore been deemed necessary to move the under needle on an in clined plane for one reason or another but herein stress is laid on its movement in a vertical plane as this effects a great simplification in the nature of the connections for actuating the needle. At the same time the character of the stitch produced in the machine is not materially affected. As will be seen by inspection of the drawings the vertical plane in which the under needle oscil lates stands in very close proximity to the vertical line constituting the path of the upper needle so that at both their upper and lower positions the two needles are in very favorable relative positions for exchanging thread loops.

The link motion diagrammatically illustrated in Figs. 9. l0 and 11 and above described will be seen to be mechanically worked out in Figs. 2. 3, 4. 7 and 8. In Fig. 3 the link motion is shown substantially complete in front view. Figs. 7 and 8 combined constitute a dissection of the mechanism, two of the numbers 71. 76 being assumed to have been bodily detached and so illustrated in Fig. T. while Fig. 8 shows the remainder of the mechanism after such detachment. The link 74 from the lower end of the carrier T1 is shown of a curved form for the purpose of clearing other parts of the mechanism to avoid conflict. The upper end of the link 74 has the center of rotation or stud at 7:") relatively fixed in position by reason of being pivoted to an upstanding extension 83 of the stock. located substantially opposite the extension 73 which supports the throat. The link 76 from the upper end of the carrier 71 extends to a movable center or stud located at 77 (see Fig. 7) which is capable of shifting to position 78 (see Fig. 8) by reason of a guiding arm 79 having its center or pivot stud at 80 upon the exten- Fo' actuating this link COll'lbll'ltltion and causing reciprocating movements of the under needle the link 74 is shown provided with a projection 81 for the purpose of properly locating the pivotal connection between the projection 81 and the link 82. which at its lower end is shown pivotally connected to the actuator (30. These various parts whose forms are shown in Figs. 3. 7. and 8. have their relative positions indicated in Figs. 2 and 4, the various pivotal connections having sometimes a slight and sometimes an extended horizontal dimension. so as to enable all of the parts to be snugly accommodated within the small space that is available.

lilanifestly the swinging of the upper pivot of the link 76 between the positions 77 and 78 must be effectively controlled. The parts show the link in its ordinary position during which the up and down needle movements are effected. A stop is provided for the link in this position and this stop may conveniently comprise the hub 84 of the link 7-t at the pivot point 75 of the latter. The

hub of link 76 bears in direct contact with the hub of link 74. To prevent any undue tendency of displacement from this normal position the arm 79. which controls the center of swinging of link 76, is provided with an extension 85'acted upon by a short strong spring 86. A spring 87 is also shown effecting a leftwise pulling upon the carrier 71 when the latter has been displaced to the Fig. 11 position. This spring 87, therefore, supplements or assists the action of the spring 86 by tending to restore the link mechanism to the position indicated in Figs. 3 and S). Incidentally the spring 87 also prevents any possibility of a binding as between the carrier 71 and link 76 when the two approach a position of alinement.

For displacing the center of swinging of link 76 from position 77 to 78 and thereby throwing the carrier and needle laterally to the. Fig. 11 position a convenient device is a toe formed on or carried by the link 74 or the hub thereof as shown so that the extreme downward swinging movement of the link 74 causes the toe 88 to bear up- .'ardly on the hub of link 76 thereby displacing the same from position 77 to 78. It will be understood that the complete downward movement of the actuator 60 brings the toe 88 into action, thereby swinging the under needle laterally to Fig.11 positiomwhile the return or upward movement of the actuator first acts to restore the linkage to the position of Figs. 3 and 9 and thereupon swings the needle and carrier to the position above the work as in Fig. 10.

It will be noted that the described linkage in its ordinary range of motion afi'ords an effective means of swinging the needle in a curved arc in such way that the needle has an efficient movement, entering the work plane perpendicularly and swinging around to its tipped position of Fig. 10 by a movement throughout which some portion of the needle always intersects at the same point in thework level.

The preferred mode of action as between the upper and under needles 37 and 70 is indicated by the successive diagrams in Figs. 12 to 18 inclusive.

Fig. 12 shows the needles in what may he termed their normal positions. both being disengaged from the work. The upper needle has almost arrived at its highest point. the under needle stands vertically beneath the work and is about-t0 enter the throat plate and to pass through the plane of the work or the slit of the hnttonhole. Both needles are, as stated. eye-pointed.

Fig. 13 shows the under needle having risen through the work carrying the under c eanse.

thread with it and the needle has at the same time commenced to tip toward the path ofthe upper needle, it being understood that the under needle moves in a ver tical plane in close proximityfto the verticalpath of the, upper needle although,

as will hereinafter appear, this'relative disposition of the needles may be altered. The

upper needle is shown as having commenced its descent.

Fig. 14 shows the under needle havingascended and tipped to its extreme and having then withdrawn slightly, such withdrawal causing a fullness or loop in the thread, thus better positioning'thethread to. receive the upper needle. The upper needle is shown as having descended farther 1 and being about to enter the loop of under thread. It will be noted that there is thus direct cooperation between the. needles above the work, no looper being employed to cause the interchange of loops or interlocking of threads. i

Fig. 15 shows the under needle having retracted nearly to normal position, while the upper needle has descended through the 7 under thread loop, penetrating the Work, and passed to a position beneath the work.

a Fig. 16 "shows the position of the needles after a further operation'in which thefunder' needle has passed through its normal posi' tion and has moved relatively laterally below the work by, the extra motion caused by the swinging of link 79', to'a position beyond the path of the upper needle. In

the meanwhile the upper needlehas com:

pleted its full descent.

Fig. 17 shows the upper needle started to ascend thus. causing a fullness or loop of upper thread which isbeing entered-by the under needle on its return toward normal position. Thus there is direct cooperation between. the needles below the work, the needle movement serving to interlock the threads without the aid of a' looper.

Fig. 18 shows the result of the continued a movement of the needles, both of them .con-

tinuing toward the normal position for the purpose of repeating the interlocking of threads above the work. Thus the upper and .under threads are rapidly interlocked, first above and then below the work, forming a lock stitch, which, at each needle movement, is tightened or set by the action of proper take-ups for the two threads.

Referring now to themodification of Figs.

19 to 24 the mechanism is there shown altered in several respects. The upper needle 37 as before, reciprocates .in a straightvertical line, while there is below the work the oscillating stock 45 carrying the under stitching mechanism. The actuator is no longer a vertically sliding rod but includes a partdriven by an upright actuator link as having 100. This link may be generally axially located and at its upper end connected. to the actuator arm 101 pivoted for convenience by meansof a hub 102 having bearing 103 at V the two sides of the stock. The link 100 is connected by a ball and cup device to.the acsimilardevice 105' to the vibrating lever 62.

tuator arm 101' and at its lower end by a The link 101 is adjustable in length for purposes of original adjustment of the mechanismby means of a "screw device 106. The actuator arm 101 causes the under/needle movements substantially as in the first form of the invention. Instead of mounting the under needle to move ina vertical plane it is here shown as moving in a slightly inclined plane so as to pass to one side of the upper needles path below the work "and to the other side above the work. Fig. 1'9olearly shows the arrangement. The hub 102 already referredto is set at a corresponding incline from the horizontal so that the entire link motion is inclined. This arrangement avoids complication of the link mechanism and no universal joints are necessary other than the two ball and cup devices referred to'." Except forthe inclined position the folswingswiththe hub 102, the thread passing finally to; the eye 112 on the upper part of the stock and thence, to the under. needle. Generally speaking the cooperation between] diagrams 12 to 18. There is the difference, however, that'the under needle passes to one side of the upper needle above the work and .to its other side below the work. This coni dition of affairs-is illustrated in Figs. 21 to 24. Figs. 21 and 22 show the under needle at its highest point, one view bein at right angles to the other. Figs. 23 and 24 show both the needles below the work, one view being at right angles to the other. By comparison of Figs. 21 and 23 the under needle is seen behind the upper in the former and in front of it in the latter.

It will thus be seen that there-have been described embodiments of the present improvements operating upon the principles and attaining the objects and advantages herebefore referred to. I

Since many matters of design, combination, arrangement and other features may be variously modified without departing from the principles hereof no limitation is intended to such features-excepting so far-as set forth in the appended claims.

105 the upper and under needles may be as in What is claimed is:

1. A machine for producing buttonhole stitching with interlocking upper and under threads including in combination, an upper needle for the upper thread, an eyepointed under needle for the under thread, said upper needle being straight and reciprocable lengthwise iii a. straight vertical path, said underneedle being movable in a curved path in a vertical plane closely adjacent to the upper needle path, a shiftable stock upon which said under needle is mounted, and mechanism operable in all positions 0? said stock for cooperatively actuating said two needles to interlock the threads alternately aboye and below the work such that the lower needle may directly enter the loop of thread when held only by the upper needle below the work.

2. A machine for producing buttonhole stitching with interlocking upper and under threads including in combination, an upper needle for the upper thread, an under needle for the under thread, said upper needle being straight and reciprocable lengthwise in a straight vertical path, said under needle being an eye-pointed needle absolutely straight from shank to point and'movable in a curved path in a vertical plane closely adjacent to the upper needle path, a shifta'ble stock upon which said under needle is mounted to move as described, and mechanism operable in all positions of said sto'riT:

for cooperatively actuating said two needles to cause each needle to directly enter the loop held on the other.

3. A machine for producing buttonhoie stitching with interlocking upper and underthreads including in combination, an upper needle for the upper thread, an absolutely straight under needle for the under thread, an under needle carrier, said under needle and carrier being movable in a curved path adjacent to the upper needle path, a shiftable stock upon which said under needle is mounted, and means operable in all positions of said stock for causing said carrier to take a lateral and return movement when below the work whereby the under needle may directly enter the upper loop held only by the upper needle below the work.

4. A machine for producing buttonhole stitching with interlocking upper and under threads including in combination, an upper needle for the upper thread, an under needle for the under thread, the upper needle being absolutely straight and reciprocable lengthwise in a straight path, the under needle being an eye-pointed needle movable in a curved path in a planeparallel to and closely adjacent to the upper needle path, an under needle carrier, said carrier guided in its movements through the work plane by only a plurality of guide links, said guide links, an additional link for causing an extra lateral movement below the work, and mechanism for actuating said needies to interlock the threads both above and below the Work by direct cooperation without the interposition of a further looping or spreading means.

In testimony whereof I afiix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

FRANKLIN AUGUSTUS REECE.

Witnesses THOMAS J. Can'rr, E. PAUL SGI-IOLZ. 

